[Okc] run your car on water

[Chikaskia at aol.com]

i did a bit of searching after receiving this post earlier to see if it is 
perhaps scam and/or there is any truth to it.  i see nothing than pans the idea 
and most of technology is valid/in existance.  i wonder if this really works!  
curtis andrew beckwith


Subj:   [Ecobal]run your car on water   
Date:   7/29/05 2:13:05 PM Central Daylight Time    
From:   forest at talk-story.net   
Reply-to:   ecobalance at lists.ecovillage.org 
To: ecobalance at lists.ecovillage.org 
Sent from the Internet (Details)    
    




How To Convert Your Car To Run On Water!

PRELIMINARY PLANS TO RUN YOUR CAR ON TAP WATER!

IT ALSO WORKS ON YOUR
TRUCK / RV / MOTORCYCLE / AIRPLANE (ETC)

PDF Version with all 6 diagrams

http://www.fourwinds10.com/news/12-science-tech/C-free-energy/2005/How-to
-Convert-your-Car-to-run-on-Water.pdf

From: http://www.spiritofmaat.com/archive/feb2/carplans_doc.htm

Will This Work?
These plans were sent to the Spirit of Ma'at anonymously, from someone
who does not want his or her name printed (for obvious reasons).
We have had them checked by an expert who believes that they are real. We
also have talked with another individual who has patented a similar
device, and we know by personal experience that the technology is sound.
So although we cannot guarantee it, we believe these plans will enable
you to build a car that runs on water. If you test it out, though, do as
the writer suggests and use an old car that doesn't represent a loss of
value if you can't make it work. And leave everything intact so that you
can always reconnect back to gas if you have to.
But if you do get it working, please send us your experience for our
readers. You could be a national hero and help save our country and our
world.
We know for certain that an automobile will run on water. So this could
be an interesting project for you mechanical types, with a great reward
of never having to purchase gasoline for the rest of your life - and
helping humanity at the same time.
Re: The Need to Rustproof Your Exhaust System
It is possible to make a hybrid of both gas and water (a system that is
being tested now in Mexico), which would eliminate the need to open the
head and remove the exhaust system. Just a thought. It takes only a small
amount of gas to keep the system dry.
The text sent from the anonymous individual was edited slightly for
better reading. The following is his/her words and drawings, which has
been given into the public domain. - Spirit of Ma’at LLC
ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
Introduction
It is suggested you try this out to begin with on a second vehicle you
own, one that you don't need to live with everyday, until you perfect
this technology.
Do-it-yourself plans allow the individual (that's you and me, folks) to
make a difference. This is the easiest and lowest-cost way to convert
your car to run on (relatively) free energy.
Now, with existing technology, anyone can stand up and make a difference
by reducing the local automotive pollution, eliminate gasoline expenses,
help restore our atmosphere, and breathe a little easier.
In putting these plans into operation, you will be making use of your
entire existing system except for the fuel tank and the catalytic
converter.
The Plan
Build and install a low-cost alternative method for running your vehicle
(internal combustion engine) on tap water, using off-the-shelf
components.
This is simply an efficient way to convert ordinary tap water into
gaseous hydrogen and oxygen, and then burn these vapors in the engine,
instead of gasoline.
This "minisystem" runs easily from your existing battery and electrical
system, and it plugs into your carburetor with simple off-the-shelf
fittings.
You will be installing a plastic water tank, a control circuit, a
reaction chamber, a hi- pressure carb/FI fitting, and 3 gauges, and then
hooking into your existing carb/FI.
The simplicity comes from its being an "on-demand" system requiring no
fancy storage or plumbing. You crank the gas pedal or throttle, and you
electrically create more vapor for immediate consumption, on demand;
low-high flow rate as needed, from idle to maximum power. The only real
change is that you are using tap water as fuel, instead of the
traditional petroleum-based fuel.
Given a choice, which way would you choose?
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Does it really work ?
A: Yes; this is well-established technology dating back to stainless
steel. But be sure to follow these instructions using the proper
mechanical and electrical assembly techniques, as this plan incorporates
the best qualities of several techniques.
Q: How does it qualify as "free energy"?
A: If you're paying someone for the water you use, then it is not
strictly free. But the alternative is to keep buying into expen$ive
ga$oline and its resultant hydrocarbon pollution.
Q: Is it safe?
A: Technically, it is safer than running on fossil fuel because you are
no longer choking on your own emissions (health-wise). In general, it is
practically as safe as your current gasoline arrangement. You will be
installing a few simple safety devices, using current automotive
standards.
Q: What kind of performance can I expect?
A: Properly adjusted, your modified vapor-only fuel system will run
cooler, and at a modestly higher power level. The mileage performance
expected from this design ranges from 50-300 mpg (of water), depending on
your adjusting skills.
Q: Can I do the modification myself?
A: Why not? If you don't have any mechanical skills, and you know someone
with basic mechanical and/or electrical skills, you can even delegate
some of the construction. If you are using a fuel-injected engine, you
may have to get a mechanic's opinion. [There will have to be an adapter
inserted into the fuel-injection system, just as you would have to do if
you were going to run on propane, hydrogen, or natural gas. Ed.)
Q: What is the environmental impact that my vehicle will have?
A: It will be producing H2O steam (water vapor) and unburnt O2 (Oxygen).
Hence, it will be cleaning the environment, rather than dumping nauseous
toxins into it. Plus you will be helping to save our dwindling supply of
atmospheric oxygen. Any excess vapor in the reaction becomes either steam
or oxygen. You can also expect to be receiving more than casual interest
from those around you.
Q: Isn’t this really a steam engine?
A: No. Really. Exceedingly high temperature and pressure are not used.
This is strictly an internal-combustion engine (burning orthohydrogen)
with residual steam in the exhaust as a by-product.
There are a few things you should know about gasoline:
Gasoline as a fuel is not necessary; it is optional.
Gasoline versus Water
There is a lot of thermochemical energy in gasoline, but there is even
more energy in water. The DOE (Department of Energy) has quoted about
40%, so it is probably much more than that.
Most people are unaware that "internal combustion" is defined as "a
thermo-vapor process" - as in "no liquid in the reaction." Most of the
gasoline in a standard internal combustion engine is actually consumed,
(cooked, and finally, broken down) in the catalytic converter after the
fuel has been not-so-burnt in the engine. Sadly, this means that most of
the fuel we use in this way is used only to cool down the combustion
process, a pollution-ridden and inefficient means of doing that.
How It Works
Exceedingly simple. Water is pumped as needed to replenish and maintain
the liquid level in the chamber. The electrodes are vibrated with a
0.5-5A electrical pulse which breaks 2(H2O) => 2H2 + O2. When the
pressure reaches say 30-60 psi, you turn the key and go. You step on the
pedal, you send more energy to the electrodes, and t                hus
more vapor to the cylinders; i.e. fuel vapor on demand.
You set the idle max-flow rate to get the most efficient use of power,
and you're off to the races.
In the big picture, your free energy is coming from the tap water in an
open system, as the latent energy in the water is enough to power the
engine and hence drive the alternator and whatever belt-driven
accessories. And the alternator is efficient enough to run the various
electrical loads (10 - 20 amps), including the additional low current to
run this vapor reaction. No extra batteries are required.
STEP BY STEP CONSTRUCTION (Please refer to diagrams at the end of this
document)
OVERVIEW - Here is the suggested sequence of steps:
1. Install the CHT (or EGT) gauge and measure your current operating temp
range (gasoline), for comparison.
2. Build and test the controller to verify the correct pulse output.
3. Build the reaction chamber and test it with the controller (i.e
pressure out).
4. Install the tank, controller, chamber, and pressure fittings.
5. Run engine and adjust the control circuit as necessary for best
performance.
6. Install the stainless steel valves and get the pistons/cylinders
coated with ceramic.
7. Coat the exhaust system with ceramic without the catalytic converter
(or let it rust out and then replace the whole dang thang with stainless
steel pipe sections).
YOU WILL NEED
plastic water tank with pump and level sensor. control circuit, wiring,
connectors, and epoxy. reaction chamber with electrodes and fittings.
3/8" stainless steel flex-tubing, fittings and clamps. carb/FI
vapor-pressure fitting kit. - pressure, CHT (or EGT), & level gauges.
stainless steel valves. copper mesh junction. ceramic surface treatment
for cylinders & pistons. stainless steel or ceramic treated exhaust
assembly.
BASIC TOOLS
drill, screwdriver and pliers hole cutter wire-wrap, solder-iron and
clippers
DVM and oscilloscope.
REACTION CHAMBER 
Construct as shown in the diagrams. Use a section of 4" PVC waste pipe
with a threaded screw-cap fitting on one end and a standard end-cap at
the other. Make sure to drill-andepoxy or tap threads thru the PVC
components for all fittings. Set and control the water level in the
chamber so that it well submerses the pipe electrodes; yet leave some
headroom to build up the hydrogen/oxygen vapor pressure. Use stainless
steel wires inside the chamber or otherwise use a protective coating; use
insulated wires outside. Ensure that the epoxy perfects the seal, or
otherwise lay down a bead of water-proof silicone that can hold pressure.
The screw fitting may require soft silicone sealant, or a gasket; its
purpose is to hold pressure and allow periodic inspection of the
electrodes. No leaks, no problems. Make sure you get a symmetric 1-5mm
gap between the 2 stainless steel pipes. The referenced literature
suggests that the closer to 1mm you get, the better. You will want to get
your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
Make your solder connections at the wire/electrode junctions nice,
smooth, and solid; then
apply a water-proof coating, e.g. the epoxy you use for joining the pipes
to the screw cap. This epoxy must be waterproof and be capable of holding
metal to plastic under pressure. You will want to get your chamber level
sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
CONTROL CIRCUIT 
The diagrams show a simple circuit to control and drive this mini-system.
You are going to make a 'square-pulse' signal that 'plays' the electrodes
like a tuning fork; which you can watch on an oscilloscope. The premise
given by the literature is: the faster you want do go down the road, the
'fatter' you make the pulses going into the reaction chamber. Duty cycle
will vary with the throttle in the vicinity of 90%MARK 10%SPACE (OFF/ON).
There is nothing sacred about how the pulse waveform is generated; there
are many ways to generate pulses, and the attached diagrams show a few.
The diagram shows the NE555- circuit approach from the referenced patent.
The output switching transistor must be rated for 1-5 amps @ 12VDC (in
saturation).
Go with a plan that works for you or your friendly neighborhood technoid
or mechanic, and go get all the circuit elements from your local
electronics store, such as Radio-Shack or Circuits-R-Us, including the
circuit board, IC sockets, and enclosure/box.
DigiKey has better selection, service, and knowledge; plus they have no
minimum order. Be sure to use a circuit board with a built-in ground
plane, and to accommodate room for mounting 2 or 3 of the gauges.
Mounting the reaction chamber in the engine compartment will require
running a stub to your pressure gauge where you can watch it.
You can easily make 30-gauge wire-wrap connections between the socket
pins and thru- hole discrete components having wire leads. Also make sure
to get spec sheets on any IC you use. More details of the best circuits
to use will be announced pending prototype testing. You will want to get
your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
Throttle Control
If you have a throttle position sensor, you should be able to access the
signal from the sensor itself OR from the computer connector. This signal
is input to the circuit as the primary control (i.e. throttle level =
pulse width = vapor rate).
If you don't have such a signal available, you will have to rig a rotary
POT (variable resistor) to the gas linkage (i.e. coupled to something at
the gas pedal or throttle cable running to the carb or FI. If you make
the attachment at the carb/FI, be sure to use a POT that can handle the
engine temp cycles. Don't use a cheezy-cheapy POT; get one rated for long
life and mechanical wear; mount it securely to something sturdy and
stationary that will not fall apart when you step on the gas.
Control Range. The full throttle RANGE (idle-max) MUST control the vapor
rate, i.e. pulse- width (duty). The resistor values at the throttle
signal must allow the throttle signal voltage, say 1-4 Volt swing, to
drive the VAPOR RATE. You will be using this voltage swing to generate a
10% ON 'square' pulse. The patent implies using a 'resonant' pulse in the
10- 250 KHz frequency range; but it is not explicitly stated so.
In this circuit, you will simply tune to whatever frequency makes the
most efficient vapor conversion. You will have to get into the specs for
each IC you use, to insure you connect the right pins to the right wires,
to control the frequency and pulse width. You can use spare sockets to
try out different discrete component values. Just keep the ones that are
spec-compatible in the circuit, and get the job done.
You crank up the throttle signal and put more electrical energy (fatter
pulses) into the electrodes; verify you can get 10% duty on the scope (2
- 100 usec on the horizontal time- base). Your averaging DVM will display
the 90%-10% DC voltage across the output transistor (Vce or Vds or Output
to Ground). Set and connect DVM in the supply current and measure .5 - 5
amps, without blowing the DVM fuse. Now verify that you got everything
you wanted.
Verify your wiring connections using your DVM as a continuity detector.
Check your wiring 1 at a time and yellow line your final schematic as you
go. You can best use board-mount miniature POTs for anything you want to
set-and-forget. The LEDs are there to give you a quick visual check of
normal vs abnormal operation of your new creation. You will want to get
your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
CARB/FI CONNECTION 
The diagram also shows that fittings are required to the carb/FI l. There
are ready-made kits (such as by Impco) available for making your pressure
fittings to the carburetor or fuel-injector as the case may be. You will
necessarily be sealing the built-in vents and making a 1-way air-intake.
The copper mesh comprises the inadvertent backfire' protection for the
reaction chamber. Make sure that all vapor/duct junctions are air-tight
and holding full pressure without leakage. Your new 'system' is
considered successful and properly adjusted when you get the full power
range at lower temp and minimum vapor flow without blowing the pressure
safety valve.
CHT (or EGT)
Monitor your engine temp with the CHT (cylinder head temp) or EGT
(exhaust gas temp) instead of your original engine temp indicator (if
any). Your existing gauge is too slow for this application and will not
warn you against overheating until after you have burnt something. Make
sure that your engine runs no hotter than in the gasoline arrangement.
VDO makes a CHT gauge with a platinum sensor that fits under your spark
plug against the cylinder head (make sure it is really clean before you
re-install your spark plug (as this is also an electrical ground).
ENGINE/EXHAUST TREATMENT
Get the valves replaced with stainless steel ones and get the
pistons/cylinders ceramic- treated ASAP when you have successfully
converted and run your new creation. Do not delay as these items will
rust, either by sheer use or by neglect (i.e. letting it sit). You could
make max use of your current exhaust system by using it with your new
deal until it rusts through, then have your mechanic or welder friend to
fit a stainless steel exhaust pipe (no catalytic converter is required).
But it could be easier and cheaper to send your existing exhaust system
out for the ceramic treatment, and then simply re-attach it to the
exhaust ports.
GENERAL
1. Do not discard or remove any of the old gasoline setup components,
e.g. tank, carb/FI, catalytic converter, unless necessary. Better to
always leave an easy way to revert back to something that at least runs,
just in case. Some people are leaving their gasoline setup completely
intact, and switching back and forth at will, just to have a backup plan.
2. Set your throttle circuit so that you get minimum vapor flow at idle,
and maximum vapor flow at full power without blowing the pressure relief
valve. In this way, you control how 'lean' your mixture is by the
strength of the pulse (i.e. “fatness” at the optimum pulse frequency).
3. If you just don't get enough power (at any throttle setting), it means
that you need to 
(1) change the pulse frequency, (2) change the gap between the
electrodes, (3) change the size (bigger) of the electrodes, or (4) make a
higher output pulse voltage (last resort). Always use an output
transistor, such as a MOSFET, that is rated for the voltage and current
you need to get the job done. OK so you might have to play around with it
some. Isn't that where all the Fun is anyhow?
4. If you get any engine knock or loud combustions (not compensated by
adjusting the timing), it means that you need to install an additional
coil in the chamber, and drive the coil with an additional pulse signal
(about 19 Hz on the .1sec time base (see diagram). Here, you will be
slowing down the burn rate just enough so that the vapors burn throughout
the power stroke of the piston. Be sure to include a board-mount POT to
set the correct strength of this 2nd pulse signal into the coil. This is
a stainless steel coil of about 1500 turns (thin wire) that you can
arrange like a donut around the center pipe (but NOT touching either
electrode), directly over the circular 1-5mm gap. You want no knocking at
any power/throttle setting; smooth power only, but also no excess
hydrogen leftover from the combustion.
5. Build the canister(s) as tall as you can without compromising your
ability to mount them conveniently near the dash panel, or in the engine
compartment, as the case may be. This way, you can always make the
electrodes bigger, if necessary without undue hardship. Remember that
anything in the engine compartment should be mounted in a bullet-proof,
vibration and temperature tolerant fashion.
6. If you have to drill a thru-hole for wiring or plumbing thru metal,
make sure to also install a grommet for protection against chafing.
Always watch your chamber pressure range from IDLE (15-25 psi) - FULL
POWER (30-60 psi). Set your safety-pressure relief- valve to 75 psi and
make sure it's rated for much higher.
7. Shut OFF the power switch and pull over if there is any malfunction of
the system. Your engine will last longest when it still develops FULL
POWER+ at some minimum temperature that we are sure you can find, by
leaning back the Royal Vapor Flow and/or by making use of the water-vapor
cooling technique (see diagram). Keep good mpg performance records, and
periodic maintenance/inspection. Keep it clean; save some money; clean
the air; heal the planet; happy motoring; tell a friend; enjoy your
freedom and self-empowerment.
8. There lacks documented material for perfecting this vapor system thru
a fuel injector; there may be some details you will discover on your own
as working prototypes progress. For example, you may be restricted to
inject the hydrogen/oxygen vapor without any water vapor, as it may rust
the injectors. If engine temp and CHT is a problem, then you will want to
re-think your plan, e.g. ceramic-coating the injectors. There is always
“replacing the FI system with a Carb.”
9. If you install the water-vapor system (for lower operating
temp/stress), you will want to lean the mixture (vapor/air) for minimum
vapor flow rate to achieve any given throttle position (idle - max). Make
sure that you get a minimum flow for IDLE and a modestly sufficient flow
for MAX, that does the cooling job without killing the combustion.
10. If you cannot find stainless steel pipe combinations that yield the
1-5mm gap, you can always regress back to alternating plates of +/-
electrodes.
11. If you are concerned about the water freezing in your system, you can
(a) add some 98% isopropyl alcohol and re-adjust the pulse frequency
accordingly; or (b) install some electric heating coils.
12. Do not let ANYONE ever compromise your dream, your freedom, your
independence or your truth.

REFERENCES
Stephen Chambers 'Apparatus for Producing Orthohydrogen and/or
Parahydrogen' US Patent 6126794, uspto.gov
Stanley Meyer 'Method for the Production of a Fuel Gas' US Patent
4936961, uspto.gov
Creative Science & Research, 'Fuel From Water', fuelless.com
Carl Cella “A Water-Fuelled Car” Nexus Magazine Oct-Nov 1996
Peter Lindemann “Where in the World is All the Free Energy”,
free-energy.cc http://www.free-energy.cc George Wiseman “The Gas-Saver

and HyCO Series” eagle-research.com http://www.eagle-research.com
C. Michael Holler “The Dromedary Newsletter” and “SuperCarb Techniques”
Stephen Chambers “Prototype Vapor Fuel System” xogen.com
http://www.xogen.com
COMMON LAW COPYRIGHT #285714: All rights to the use and duplication of
these plans are hereby reserved for the People, in their efforts to heal
and restore the environment. Dare to express your uniqueness and
environmental ideals. This technology is an exercise in responsible
self-determination.
DISCLAIMER: The Spirit of Ma'at LLC and the Spirit of Ma'at ezine and the
author of this document assumes no liability for the use or misuse of
this information; which is made available as public-domain information
and free of charge, for the purposes of education, ecology, health,
well-being, freedom, liberty, and pursuit of happiness.

-- 
forest
forest at talk-story.net
http://www.lavazone2.com/forest/


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