<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><HTML><FONT SIZE=2 PTSIZE=10 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">i did a bit of searching after receiving this post earlier to see if it is perhaps scam and/or there is any truth to it. i see nothing than pans the idea and most of technology is valid/in existance. i wonder if this really works! curtis andrew beckwith<BR>
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Subj: <B>[Ecobal]run your car on water </B> <BR>
Date: 7/29/05 2:13:05 PM Central Daylight Time <BR>
From: <A HREF="mailto:forest@talk-story.net">forest@talk-story.net</A> <BR>
Reply-to: <A HREF="mailto:ecobalance@lists.ecovillage.org">ecobalance@lists.ecovillage.org</A> <BR>
To: <A HREF="mailto:ecobalance@lists.ecovillage.org">ecobalance@lists.ecovillage.org</A> <BR>
<I>Sent from the Internet (Details)</I> <BR>
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<BR>
How To Convert Your Car To Run On Water!<BR>
<BR>
PRELIMINARY PLANS TO RUN YOUR CAR ON TAP WATER!<BR>
<BR>
IT ALSO WORKS ON YOUR<BR>
TRUCK / RV / MOTORCYCLE / AIRPLANE (ETC)<BR>
<BR>
PDF Version with all 6 diagrams<BR>
<BR>
http://www.fourwinds10.com/news/12-science-tech/C-free-energy/2005/How-to<BR>
-Convert-your-Car-to-run-on-Water.pdf<BR>
<BR>
From: http://www.spiritofmaat.com/archive/feb2/carplans_doc.htm<BR>
<BR>
Will This Work?<BR>
These plans were sent to the Spirit of Ma'at anonymously, from someone<BR>
who does not want his or her name printed (for obvious reasons).<BR>
We have had them checked by an expert who believes that they are real. We<BR>
also have talked with another individual who has patented a similar<BR>
device, and we know by personal experience that the technology is sound.<BR>
So although we cannot guarantee it, we believe these plans will enable<BR>
you to build a car that runs on water. If you test it out, though, do as<BR>
the writer suggests and use an old car that doesn't represent a loss of<BR>
value if you can't make it work. And leave everything intact so that you<BR>
can always reconnect back to gas if you have to.<BR>
But if you do get it working, please send us your experience for our<BR>
readers. You could be a national hero and help save our country and our<BR>
world.<BR>
We know for certain that an automobile will run on water. So this could<BR>
be an interesting project for you mechanical types, with a great reward<BR>
of never having to purchase gasoline for the rest of your life - and<BR>
helping humanity at the same time.<BR>
Re: The Need to Rustproof Your Exhaust System<BR>
It is possible to make a hybrid of both gas and water (a system that is<BR>
being tested now in Mexico), which would eliminate the need to open the<BR>
head and remove the exhaust system. Just a thought. It takes only a small<BR>
amount of gas to keep the system dry.<BR>
The text sent from the anonymous individual was edited slightly for<BR>
better reading. The following is his/her words and drawings, which has<BR>
been given into the public domain. - Spirit of Ma’at LLC<BR>
ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo<BR>
Introduction<BR>
It is suggested you try this out to begin with on a second vehicle you<BR>
own, one that you don't need to live with everyday, until you perfect<BR>
this technology.<BR>
Do-it-yourself plans allow the individual (that's you and me, folks) to<BR>
make a difference. This is the easiest and lowest-cost way to convert<BR>
your car to run on (relatively) free energy.<BR>
Now, with existing technology, anyone can stand up and make a difference<BR>
by reducing the local automotive pollution, eliminate gasoline expenses,<BR>
help restore our atmosphere, and breathe a little easier.<BR>
In putting these plans into operation, you will be making use of your<BR>
entire existing system except for the fuel tank and the catalytic<BR>
converter.<BR>
The Plan<BR>
Build and install a low-cost alternative method for running your vehicle<BR>
(internal combustion engine) on tap water, using off-the-shelf<BR>
components.<BR>
This is simply an efficient way to convert ordinary tap water into<BR>
gaseous hydrogen and oxygen, and then burn these vapors in the engine,<BR>
instead of gasoline.<BR>
This "minisystem" runs easily from your existing battery and electrical<BR>
system, and it plugs into your carburetor with simple off-the-shelf<BR>
fittings.<BR>
You will be installing a plastic water tank, a control circuit, a<BR>
reaction chamber, a hi- pressure carb/FI fitting, and 3 gauges, and then<BR>
hooking into your existing carb/FI.<BR>
The simplicity comes from its being an "on-demand" system requiring no<BR>
fancy storage or plumbing. You crank the gas pedal or throttle, and you<BR>
electrically create more vapor for immediate consumption, on demand;<BR>
low-high flow rate as needed, from idle to maximum power. The only real<BR>
change is that you are using tap water as fuel, instead of the<BR>
traditional petroleum-based fuel.<BR>
Given a choice, which way would you choose?<BR>
Frequently Asked Questions<BR>
Q: Does it really work ?<BR>
A: Yes; this is well-established technology dating back to stainless<BR>
steel. But be sure to follow these instructions using the proper<BR>
mechanical and electrical assembly techniques, as this plan incorporates<BR>
the best qualities of several techniques.<BR>
Q: How does it qualify as "free energy"?<BR>
A: If you're paying someone for the water you use, then it is not<BR>
strictly free. But the alternative is to keep buying into expen$ive<BR>
ga$oline and its resultant hydrocarbon pollution.<BR>
Q: Is it safe?<BR>
A: Technically, it is safer than running on fossil fuel because you are<BR>
no longer choking on your own emissions (health-wise). In general, it is<BR>
practically as safe as your current gasoline arrangement. You will be<BR>
installing a few simple safety devices, using current automotive<BR>
standards.<BR>
Q: What kind of performance can I expect?<BR>
A: Properly adjusted, your modified vapor-only fuel system will run<BR>
cooler, and at a modestly higher power level. The mileage performance<BR>
expected from this design ranges from 50-300 mpg (of water), depending on<BR>
your adjusting skills.<BR>
Q: Can I do the modification myself?<BR>
A: Why not? If you don't have any mechanical skills, and you know someone<BR>
with basic mechanical and/or electrical skills, you can even delegate<BR>
some of the construction. If you are using a fuel-injected engine, you<BR>
may have to get a mechanic's opinion. [There will have to be an adapter<BR>
inserted into the fuel-injection system, just as you would have to do if<BR>
you were going to run on propane, hydrogen, or natural gas. Ed.)<BR>
Q: What is the environmental impact that my vehicle will have?<BR>
A: It will be producing H2O steam (water vapor) and unburnt O2 (Oxygen).<BR>
Hence, it will be cleaning the environment, rather than dumping nauseous<BR>
toxins into it. Plus you will be helping to save our dwindling supply of<BR>
atmospheric oxygen. Any excess vapor in the reaction becomes either steam<BR>
or oxygen. You can also expect to be receiving more than casual interest<BR>
from those around you.<BR>
Q: Isn’t this really a steam engine?<BR>
A: No. Really. Exceedingly high temperature and pressure are not used.<BR>
This is strictly an internal-combustion engine (burning orthohydrogen)<BR>
with residual steam in the exhaust as a by-product.<BR>
There are a few things you should know about gasoline:<BR>
Gasoline as a fuel is not necessary; it is optional.<BR>
Gasoline versus Water<BR>
There is a lot of thermochemical energy in gasoline, but there is even<BR>
more energy in water. The DOE (Department of Energy) has quoted about<BR>
40%, so it is probably much more than that.<BR>
Most people are unaware that "internal combustion" is defined as "a<BR>
thermo-vapor process" - as in "no liquid in the reaction." Most of the<BR>
gasoline in a standard internal combustion engine is actually consumed,<BR>
(cooked, and finally, broken down) in the catalytic converter after the<BR>
fuel has been not-so-burnt in the engine. Sadly, this means that most of<BR>
the fuel we use in this way is used only to cool down the combustion<BR>
process, a pollution-ridden and inefficient means of doing that.<BR>
How It Works<BR>
Exceedingly simple. Water is pumped as needed to replenish and maintain<BR>
the liquid level in the chamber. The electrodes are vibrated with a<BR>
0.5-5A electrical pulse which breaks 2(H2O) => 2H2 + O2. When the<BR>
pressure reaches say 30-60 psi, you turn the key and go. You step on the<BR>
pedal, you send more energy to the electrodes, and t hus<BR>
more vapor to the cylinders; i.e. fuel vapor on demand.<BR>
You set the idle max-flow rate to get the most efficient use of power,<BR>
and you're off to the races.<BR>
In the big picture, your free energy is coming from the tap water in an<BR>
open system, as the latent energy in the water is enough to power the<BR>
engine and hence drive the alternator and whatever belt-driven<BR>
accessories. And the alternator is efficient enough to run the various<BR>
electrical loads (10 - 20 amps), including the additional low current to<BR>
run this vapor reaction. No extra batteries are required.<BR>
STEP BY STEP CONSTRUCTION (Please refer to diagrams at the end of this<BR>
document)<BR>
OVERVIEW - Here is the suggested sequence of steps:<BR>
1. Install the CHT (or EGT) gauge and measure your current operating temp<BR>
range (gasoline), for comparison.<BR>
2. Build and test the controller to verify the correct pulse output.<BR>
3. Build the reaction chamber and test it with the controller (i.e<BR>
pressure out).<BR>
4. Install the tank, controller, chamber, and pressure fittings.<BR>
5. Run engine and adjust the control circuit as necessary for best<BR>
performance.<BR>
6. Install the stainless steel valves and get the pistons/cylinders<BR>
coated with ceramic.<BR>
7. Coat the exhaust system with ceramic without the catalytic converter<BR>
(or let it rust out and then replace the whole dang thang with stainless<BR>
steel pipe sections).<BR>
YOU WILL NEED<BR>
plastic water tank with pump and level sensor. control circuit, wiring,<BR>
connectors, and epoxy. reaction chamber with electrodes and fittings.<BR>
3/8" stainless steel flex-tubing, fittings and clamps. carb/FI<BR>
vapor-pressure fitting kit. - pressure, CHT (or EGT), & level gauges.<BR>
stainless steel valves. copper mesh junction. ceramic surface treatment<BR>
for cylinders & pistons. stainless steel or ceramic treated exhaust<BR>
assembly.<BR>
BASIC TOOLS<BR>
drill, screwdriver and pliers hole cutter wire-wrap, solder-iron and<BR>
clippers<BR>
DVM and oscilloscope.<BR>
REACTION CHAMBER <BR>
Construct as shown in the diagrams. Use a section of 4" PVC waste pipe<BR>
with a threaded screw-cap fitting on one end and a standard end-cap at<BR>
the other. Make sure to drill-andepoxy or tap threads thru the PVC<BR>
components for all fittings. Set and control the water level in the<BR>
chamber so that it well submerses the pipe electrodes; yet leave some<BR>
headroom to build up the hydrogen/oxygen vapor pressure. Use stainless<BR>
steel wires inside the chamber or otherwise use a protective coating; use<BR>
insulated wires outside. Ensure that the epoxy perfects the seal, or<BR>
otherwise lay down a bead of water-proof silicone that can hold pressure.<BR>
The screw fitting may require soft silicone sealant, or a gasket; its<BR>
purpose is to hold pressure and allow periodic inspection of the<BR>
electrodes. No leaks, no problems. Make sure you get a symmetric 1-5mm<BR>
gap between the 2 stainless steel pipes. The referenced literature<BR>
suggests that the closer to 1mm you get, the better. You will want to get<BR>
your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.<BR>
Make your solder connections at the wire/electrode junctions nice,<BR>
smooth, and solid; then<BR>
apply a water-proof coating, e.g. the epoxy you use for joining the pipes<BR>
to the screw cap. This epoxy must be waterproof and be capable of holding<BR>
metal to plastic under pressure. You will want to get your chamber level<BR>
sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.<BR>
CONTROL CIRCUIT <BR>
The diagrams show a simple circuit to control and drive this mini-system.<BR>
You are going to make a 'square-pulse' signal that 'plays' the electrodes<BR>
like a tuning fork; which you can watch on an oscilloscope. The premise<BR>
given by the literature is: the faster you want do go down the road, the<BR>
'fatter' you make the pulses going into the reaction chamber. Duty cycle<BR>
will vary with the throttle in the vicinity of 90%MARK 10%SPACE (OFF/ON).<BR>
There is nothing sacred about how the pulse waveform is generated; there<BR>
are many ways to generate pulses, and the attached diagrams show a few.<BR>
The diagram shows the NE555- circuit approach from the referenced patent.<BR>
The output switching transistor must be rated for 1-5 amps @ 12VDC (in<BR>
saturation).<BR>
Go with a plan that works for you or your friendly neighborhood technoid<BR>
or mechanic, and go get all the circuit elements from your local<BR>
electronics store, such as Radio-Shack or Circuits-R-Us, including the<BR>
circuit board, IC sockets, and enclosure/box.<BR>
DigiKey has better selection, service, and knowledge; plus they have no<BR>
minimum order. Be sure to use a circuit board with a built-in ground<BR>
plane, and to accommodate room for mounting 2 or 3 of the gauges.<BR>
Mounting the reaction chamber in the engine compartment will require<BR>
running a stub to your pressure gauge where you can watch it.<BR>
You can easily make 30-gauge wire-wrap connections between the socket<BR>
pins and thru- hole discrete components having wire leads. Also make sure<BR>
to get spec sheets on any IC you use. More details of the best circuits<BR>
to use will be announced pending prototype testing. You will want to get<BR>
your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.<BR>
Throttle Control<BR>
If you have a throttle position sensor, you should be able to access the<BR>
signal from the sensor itself OR from the computer connector. This signal<BR>
is input to the circuit as the primary control (i.e. throttle level =<BR>
pulse width = vapor rate).<BR>
If you don't have such a signal available, you will have to rig a rotary<BR>
POT (variable resistor) to the gas linkage (i.e. coupled to something at<BR>
the gas pedal or throttle cable running to the carb or FI. If you make<BR>
the attachment at the carb/FI, be sure to use a POT that can handle the<BR>
engine temp cycles. Don't use a cheezy-cheapy POT; get one rated for long<BR>
life and mechanical wear; mount it securely to something sturdy and<BR>
stationary that will not fall apart when you step on the gas.<BR>
Control Range. The full throttle RANGE (idle-max) MUST control the vapor<BR>
rate, i.e. pulse- width (duty). The resistor values at the throttle<BR>
signal must allow the throttle signal voltage, say 1-4 Volt swing, to<BR>
drive the VAPOR RATE. You will be using this voltage swing to generate a<BR>
10% ON 'square' pulse. The patent implies using a 'resonant' pulse in the<BR>
10- 250 KHz frequency range; but it is not explicitly stated so.<BR>
In this circuit, you will simply tune to whatever frequency makes the<BR>
most efficient vapor conversion. You will have to get into the specs for<BR>
each IC you use, to insure you connect the right pins to the right wires,<BR>
to control the frequency and pulse width. You can use spare sockets to<BR>
try out different discrete component values. Just keep the ones that are<BR>
spec-compatible in the circuit, and get the job done.<BR>
You crank up the throttle signal and put more electrical energy (fatter<BR>
pulses) into the electrodes; verify you can get 10% duty on the scope (2<BR>
- 100 usec on the horizontal time- base). Your averaging DVM will display<BR>
the 90%-10% DC voltage across the output transistor (Vce or Vds or Output<BR>
to Ground). Set and connect DVM in the supply current and measure .5 - 5<BR>
amps, without blowing the DVM fuse. Now verify that you got everything<BR>
you wanted.<BR>
Verify your wiring connections using your DVM as a continuity detector.<BR>
Check your wiring 1 at a time and yellow line your final schematic as you<BR>
go. You can best use board-mount miniature POTs for anything you want to<BR>
set-and-forget. The LEDs are there to give you a quick visual check of<BR>
normal vs abnormal operation of your new creation. You will want to get<BR>
your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.<BR>
CARB/FI CONNECTION <BR>
The diagram also shows that fittings are required to the carb/FI l. There<BR>
are ready-made kits (such as by Impco) available for making your pressure<BR>
fittings to the carburetor or fuel-injector as the case may be. You will<BR>
necessarily be sealing the built-in vents and making a 1-way air-intake.<BR>
The copper mesh comprises the inadvertent backfire' protection for the<BR>
reaction chamber. Make sure that all vapor/duct junctions are air-tight<BR>
and holding full pressure without leakage. Your new 'system' is<BR>
considered successful and properly adjusted when you get the full power<BR>
range at lower temp and minimum vapor flow without blowing the pressure<BR>
safety valve.<BR>
CHT (or EGT)<BR>
Monitor your engine temp with the CHT (cylinder head temp) or EGT<BR>
(exhaust gas temp) instead of your original engine temp indicator (if<BR>
any). Your existing gauge is too slow for this application and will not<BR>
warn you against overheating until after you have burnt something. Make<BR>
sure that your engine runs no hotter than in the gasoline arrangement.<BR>
VDO makes a CHT gauge with a platinum sensor that fits under your spark<BR>
plug against the cylinder head (make sure it is really clean before you<BR>
re-install your spark plug (as this is also an electrical ground).<BR>
ENGINE/EXHAUST TREATMENT<BR>
Get the valves replaced with stainless steel ones and get the<BR>
pistons/cylinders ceramic- treated ASAP when you have successfully<BR>
converted and run your new creation. Do not delay as these items will<BR>
rust, either by sheer use or by neglect (i.e. letting it sit). You could<BR>
make max use of your current exhaust system by using it with your new<BR>
deal until it rusts through, then have your mechanic or welder friend to<BR>
fit a stainless steel exhaust pipe (no catalytic converter is required).<BR>
But it could be easier and cheaper to send your existing exhaust system<BR>
out for the ceramic treatment, and then simply re-attach it to the<BR>
exhaust ports.<BR>
GENERAL<BR>
1. Do not discard or remove any of the old gasoline setup components,<BR>
e.g. tank, carb/FI, catalytic converter, unless necessary. Better to<BR>
always leave an easy way to revert back to something that at least runs,<BR>
just in case. Some people are leaving their gasoline setup completely<BR>
intact, and switching back and forth at will, just to have a backup plan.<BR>
2. Set your throttle circuit so that you get minimum vapor flow at idle,<BR>
and maximum vapor flow at full power without blowing the pressure relief<BR>
valve. In this way, you control how 'lean' your mixture is by the<BR>
strength of the pulse (i.e. “fatness” at the optimum pulse frequency).<BR>
3. If you just don't get enough power (at any throttle setting), it means<BR>
that you need to <BR>
(1) change the pulse frequency, (2) change the gap between the<BR>
electrodes, (3) change the size (bigger) of the electrodes, or (4) make a<BR>
higher output pulse voltage (last resort). Always use an output<BR>
transistor, such as a MOSFET, that is rated for the voltage and current<BR>
you need to get the job done. OK so you might have to play around with it<BR>
some. Isn't that where all the Fun is anyhow?<BR>
4. If you get any engine knock or loud combustions (not compensated by<BR>
adjusting the timing), it means that you need to install an additional<BR>
coil in the chamber, and drive the coil with an additional pulse signal<BR>
(about 19 Hz on the .1sec time base (see diagram). Here, you will be<BR>
slowing down the burn rate just enough so that the vapors burn throughout<BR>
the power stroke of the piston. Be sure to include a board-mount POT to<BR>
set the correct strength of this 2nd pulse signal into the coil. This is<BR>
a stainless steel coil of about 1500 turns (thin wire) that you can<BR>
arrange like a donut around the center pipe (but NOT touching either<BR>
electrode), directly over the circular 1-5mm gap. You want no knocking at<BR>
any power/throttle setting; smooth power only, but also no excess<BR>
hydrogen leftover from the combustion.<BR>
5. Build the canister(s) as tall as you can without compromising your<BR>
ability to mount them conveniently near the dash panel, or in the engine<BR>
compartment, as the case may be. This way, you can always make the<BR>
electrodes bigger, if necessary without undue hardship. Remember that<BR>
anything in the engine compartment should be mounted in a bullet-proof,<BR>
vibration and temperature tolerant fashion.<BR>
6. If you have to drill a thru-hole for wiring or plumbing thru metal,<BR>
make sure to also install a grommet for protection against chafing.<BR>
Always watch your chamber pressure range from IDLE (15-25 psi) - FULL<BR>
POWER (30-60 psi). Set your safety-pressure relief- valve to 75 psi and<BR>
make sure it's rated for much higher.<BR>
7. Shut OFF the power switch and pull over if there is any malfunction of<BR>
the system. Your engine will last longest when it still develops FULL<BR>
POWER+ at some minimum temperature that we are sure you can find, by<BR>
leaning back the Royal Vapor Flow and/or by making use of the water-vapor<BR>
cooling technique (see diagram). Keep good mpg performance records, and<BR>
periodic maintenance/inspection. Keep it clean; save some money; clean<BR>
the air; heal the planet; happy motoring; tell a friend; enjoy your<BR>
freedom and self-empowerment.<BR>
8. There lacks documented material for perfecting this vapor system thru<BR>
a fuel injector; there may be some details you will discover on your own<BR>
as working prototypes progress. For example, you may be restricted to<BR>
inject the hydrogen/oxygen vapor without any water vapor, as it may rust<BR>
the injectors. If engine temp and CHT is a problem, then you will want to<BR>
re-think your plan, e.g. ceramic-coating the injectors. There is always<BR>
“replacing the FI system with a Carb.”<BR>
9. If you install the water-vapor system (for lower operating<BR>
temp/stress), you will want to lean the mixture (vapor/air) for minimum<BR>
vapor flow rate to achieve any given throttle position (idle - max). Make<BR>
sure that you get a minimum flow for IDLE and a modestly sufficient flow<BR>
for MAX, that does the cooling job without killing the combustion.<BR>
10. If you cannot find stainless steel pipe combinations that yield the<BR>
1-5mm gap, you can always regress back to alternating plates of +/-<BR>
electrodes.<BR>
11. If you are concerned about the water freezing in your system, you can<BR>
(a) add some 98% isopropyl alcohol and re-adjust the pulse frequency<BR>
accordingly; or (b) install some electric heating coils.<BR>
12. Do not let ANYONE ever compromise your dream, your freedom, your<BR>
independence or your truth.<BR>
<BR>
REFERENCES<BR>
Stephen Chambers 'Apparatus for Producing Orthohydrogen and/or<BR>
Parahydrogen' US Patent 6126794, uspto.gov<BR>
Stanley Meyer 'Method for the Production of a Fuel Gas' US Patent<BR>
4936961, uspto.gov<BR>
Creative Science & Research, 'Fuel From Water', fuelless.com<BR>
Carl Cella “A Water-Fuelled Car” Nexus Magazine Oct-Nov 1996<BR>
Peter Lindemann “Where in the World is All the Free Energy”,<BR>
free-energy.cc http://www.free-energy.cc George Wiseman “The Gas-Saver<BR>
and HyCO Series” eagle-research.com http://www.eagle-research.com<BR>
C. Michael Holler “The Dromedary Newsletter” and “SuperCarb Techniques”<BR>
Stephen Chambers “Prototype Vapor Fuel System” xogen.com<BR>
http://www.xogen.com<BR>
COMMON LAW COPYRIGHT #285714: All rights to the use and duplication of<BR>
these plans are hereby reserved for the People, in their efforts to heal<BR>
and restore the environment. Dare to express your uniqueness and<BR>
environmental ideals. This technology is an exercise in responsible<BR>
self-determination.<BR>
DISCLAIMER: The Spirit of Ma'at LLC and the Spirit of Ma'at ezine and the<BR>
author of this document assumes no liability for the use or misuse of<BR>
this information; which is made available as public-domain information<BR>
and free of charge, for the purposes of education, ecology, health,<BR>
well-being, freedom, liberty, and pursuit of happiness.<BR>
<BR>
-- <BR>
forest<BR>
forest@talk-story.net<BR>
http://www.lavazone2.com/forest/<BR>
<BR>
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