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</v:background></xml><![endif]--><div class=WordSection1><h1><b><font size=5 color=black face=Georgia><span style='font-size:18.0pt;font-family:"Georgia","serif"'>Green Cuisine in Legoland<o:p></o:p></span></font></b></h1><h6 style='mso-margin-top-alt:1.5pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:1.5pt;margin-left:0in;line-height:14.4pt'><b><font size=1 color=gray face=Arial><span style='font-size:7.5pt;color:gray;font-weight:bold'>By ROGER COHEN<o:p></o:p></span></font></b></h6><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt;line-height:18.0pt'><font size=1 color=black face=Georgia><span style='font-size:9.0pt;font-family:"Georgia","serif"'>COPENHAGEN — Every now and again nations rebrand themselves. The process can be painstaking, as in Germany, or can occur with the sudden lurch that has turned Denmark, which never made anything more mouthwatering than a Lego set, into a culinary destination. </span></font><font size=1 face=Georgia><span style='font-size:9.0pt;font-family:"Georgia","serif";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt;line-height:18.0pt'><font size=1 color=black face=Georgia><span style='font-size:9.0pt;font-family:"Georgia","serif"'>Denmark was always big on design, and not just of toys. It did form rather than content. It made beautiful china, and chairs with clean lines, and pleasing tables and wine glasses, but its contribution to what is placed in or on these objects was paltry. In frosty Denmark food was about survival, little more; pickled cabbage to get through the winter months. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt;line-height:18.0pt'><font size=1 color=black face=Georgia><span style='font-size:9.0pt;font-family:"Georgia","serif"'>Then along comes a chef with a Danish mother and Macedonian Muslim father and a Jewish wife, a young man of eclectic interests, and he starts wondering whether Scandinavia has not sold itself short, ignored its ingredients, gone for olive oil when it might have explored the oil of hazelnuts, spurned the potential of scurvy grass, looked afar when the prize was near. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt;line-height:18.0pt'><font size=1 color=black face=Georgia><span style='font-size:9.0pt;font-family:"Georgia","serif"'>In thinking this way, René Redzepi reflected the zeitgeist. I’m not sure he did this consciously. In the late 1990s, he worked at <span class=SpellE>Ferran</span> <span class=SpellE>Adrià’s</span> El <span class=SpellE>Bulli</span> in Spain, the signature restaurant of a frothy, foamy moment where boundaries, molecular or otherwise, were broken with outrageous exuberance. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt;line-height:18.0pt'><font size=1 color=black face=Georgia><span style='font-size:9.0pt;font-family:"Georgia","serif"'>Since then, the world has closed in, with its now more than 7 billion people demanding sustenance, food prices rising, and economies battling to emerge from near-collapse. <span class=SpellE>Redzepi’s</span> <span class=SpellE>Noma</span> restaurant, which relies heavily on foraging of Scandinavian forest floors and the shoreline, is an interesting avatar of an age of limited resources (even if the resources required to dine there are considerable.) <o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt;line-height:18.0pt'><font size=1 color=black face=Georgia><span style='font-size:9.0pt;font-family:"Georgia","serif"'>It’s no coincidence, surely, that Copenhagen is now a city that heats itself in winter largely by incinerating its own waste, and has serious plans to cut all dependence on fossil fuels by 2025, while at <span class=SpellE>Noma</span>, Redzepi talks of “trash cooking” — the use of everything that is cast away to create delicacies: deep fried fish scales crisp as chips; broths of an “<span class=SpellE>umami</span>” richness made from vegetable peels; grilled whole cods’ heads yielding flesh of succulent tenderness just below the eyes. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt;line-height:18.0pt'><font size=1 color=black face=Georgia><span style='font-size:9.0pt;font-family:"Georgia","serif"'>Nor, I think, is it a coincidence that Denmark has entered a period of dizzying gastronomic creativity at the same time as it is pioneering new green technologies. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt;line-height:18.0pt'><font size=1 color=black face=Georgia><span style='font-size:9.0pt;font-family:"Georgia","serif"'>The theme is consistent: more from less. Necessity is a mother of invention while the illusion of plenty may be first cousin to lost opportunity: America, take note. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt;line-height:18.0pt'><span class=SpellE><font size=1 color=black face=Georgia><span style='font-size:9.0pt;font-family:"Georgia","serif"'>Noma</span></font></span><font size=1 face=Georgia><span style='font-size:9.0pt;font-family:"Georgia","serif"'> opened in 2003 in an old warehouse overlooking the water — part frozen when I visited — and within a year Redzepi had decided a Nordic accent was not enough. He would go all local: no eggplant, no pineapple, no ratatouille, nothing from the sun-drenched Mediterranean world (apart from some wines). The gamble was evident: The frosty north hardly seems fecund terrain. Yet last year <span class=SpellE>Noma</span> was voted the best restaurant in the world in the annual poll of serious foodies conducted by San Pellegrino, the evergreen Italian mineral water. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color="#0f243e" face="Lucida Sans"><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Lucida Sans","sans-serif";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";color:#0F243E'>Article continues at: <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2011/03/11/opinion/11iht-edcohen11.html?nl=todaysheadlines&emc=tha212&pagewanted=print">http://www.nytimes.com/2011/03/11/opinion/11iht-edcohen11.html?nl=todaysheadlines&emc=tha212&pagewanted=print</a><o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color="#0f243e" face="Lucida Sans"><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Lucida Sans","sans-serif";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";color:#0F243E'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p></div></body></html>