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<DIV>At my <A
href="mailto:runningonempty2@yahoogroups.com">runningonempty2@yahoogroups.com</A>
discussion group, and at the permaculture ibiblio listserv, I’ve been inquiring
about using whitewash as a cheap way to get a white roof. Here is a thread
of answers from the permaculture listserv that pretty much sums up the
results. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Executive summary: it works, one guy estimates it cut his electric usage by
30%, it lasted him 2 years in St Louis before he had to reapply. It costs
maybe $15 to do your roof.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>This is worth passing around.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Bob Waldrop, OKC</DIV>
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<DIV style="font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=bwaldrop@cox.net
href="mailto:bwaldrop@cox.net">Bob Waldrop</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Monday, August 08, 2011 11:14 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=runningonempty2@yahoogroups.com
href="mailto:runningonempty2@yahoogroups.com">runningonempty2@yahoogroups.com</A>
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> [RunningOnEmpty2] Fw: [permaculture] Whitewash for
roofs?</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
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<P>I posted this same question to the I-biblio permaculture listserv. Here is
<BR>a short thread of answers from a guy who did this and figures it cut his
<BR>electric usage by 30%. Yes, it eventually washes off but it lasted pretty
<BR>good (2 years in St Louis) for this guy and he figures it only costs $15 or
<BR>so to do this to your roof. Scroll down almost to the bottom and find a
<BR>link at the build it solar site of the guy who did this.<BR><BR>Bob
Waldrop<BR><BR>-----Original Message----- <BR>Here is the information I received
from David (the person from the blog <BR>article):<BR><BR>Someone asked me how
it affected my electric bills... and i<BR>researched it pretty thoroughly
because i kept a lot of electric bill<BR>information for several years back. I
figure it saved me about 30<BR>percent of electric USAGE. I did not compare
dollar amounts from year<BR>to year because the price of fuel changes. I only
compared kilowatt<BR>hours per month used.<BR><BR>Also, many people have emailed
me and most people ask the same<BR>question about how well the lime sticks...
etc.. so i have simply copy<BR>& pasted one of my emails to another person.
This should cover<BR>pretty much everything most people wonder about... here it
is:<BR><BR>---------------------------------<BR><BR>STICKING ABILITY: Everyone
asks this question.<BR>Yes... lime is called "whitewash" and it will eventually
come off.... but it <BR>sticks a lot better than you might think. It stayed on
my roof for 2 <BR>winters here in St. Louis ....(and didn't come off). I suspect
it might <BR>wash off after 4 or 5<BR>years. But the cost is only $15 bucks to
cover your whole roof.. If<BR>you are still afraid of it not sticking, just
purchase one bag and do a<BR>test painting of a scrap piece of wood.. or paint
your dogs house roof. by <BR>the way, it WILL wash off during the first couple
of hours if it<BR>rains before it dries. That's a big consideration in florida!
Be sure to <BR>paint on a non rainy day. (good luck)<BR><BR>SEALANT: Just forget
it. This stuff (lime) is not going to seal your roof <BR>against water leaks at
all. But the<BR>ELASTOMERIC coating is not made for shingle roofs either. If
your roof<BR>has any leak problems, better look for another
solution.<BR><BR>APPLYING: I didn't carry any water up the ladder. I only
carried the LIME <BR>POWDER up the ladder. I dumped a couple gallons<BR>of
powder into a big ice-chest on the roof. Then used a water hose<BR>(running
slowly at edge of roof) into the ice chest. I Mixed using my<BR>long-handled
roller. I just added water until it "looked ok" I wanted<BR>it kind of thick so
i didn't have to do 2 coats. You don't want to do<BR>this twice. so mix it kind
of thick. My "50--50" statement is only a<BR>rough estimate. Dont over-worry
about it. it's not all that<BR>critical....... it just has to have some water in
it to get it to act<BR>like paint. I would dump about a gallon of paint at the
peak of the roof <BR>and it would run down while i SLATHERED it around with the
roller. This <BR>makes painting between the shingle-gaps much
easier.<BR><BR>DRYING: During painting, you will say, "This stuff<BR>isn't very
white!" but just wait untill it DRIES. It will dry a<BR>BRILLIANT white that
will amaze you.<BR><BR>MY ROOF: My house has regular shingles on it<BR>again...
not white ones. My wife did not like our roof looking<BR>"different" than
everyone elses. So I went ahead and replaced the<BR>shingles with standard brown
ones. Then winter came... it SNOWED....<BR>and i said to my wife, "Look honey...
everyones roof is white now! Its<BR>so pretty, isn't it?" She didn't see the
humor in this, nor the<BR>sillyness of dis-liking white roofs.<BR><BR>WAIT 24
HOURS (before applying the paint mix): I<BR>think i read that somewhere also.
Maybe that has some validity i don't<BR>know. Maybe it will stick better if you
wait 24 hours??? I think it<BR>sticks well enough to just paint it right
away.<BR><BR>OTHER IDEAS: One man emailed me and said he was<BR>going to mix his
with some CONCRETE powder to help the sticking<BR>ability. That sounds like a
good idea to me, but he never let me know<BR>how that went. I have also heard
you could mix it with EGG WHITES to<BR>help with stickability. Lots of things a
person could experiment with,<BR>but it sticks pretty well all by itself just
mixed with water in my<BR>opinion.<BR><BR>CLOTHES: Wear some shoes and clothes
you dont want. You will ruin them <BR>doing this job and will have to throw them
away.<BR><BR>SAFETY: Wet paint is slippery. My roof was not<BR>very slanted, but
if your roof is very slanty...be carefull you dont<BR>slip and
fall.<BR><BR>RESULTS: My attic went from 145 degrees down to<BR>about 100
degrees using this lime paint!! This is MUCH more effective<BR>than installing
any kind of attic vents. My attic vents and soffit<BR>vents and FAN POWERED vent
only reduced attic temperatures from 145 down to <BR>about 143 degrees!!!! The
effectiveness of this is truly amazing!<BR><BR>THERMOMETER: It is good to
document your success.<BR>Purchase a cheap digital thermometer (about $12) with
one of them<BR>wired-probes. You can add 10 or 20 feet of wire to the probe to
monitor <BR>your attic temps. Most of them have a MEMORY of todays
minimum/maximum <BR>temperatures you can read... then press "CLEAR" so you can
read<BR>tomorrows maximum. Write down your results before and after
the<BR>painting. I got my digital thermometer at HarborFreight tools.
They<BR>sell them in the garden department of hardware stores
also.<BR><BR>BEFORE YOU START: Measure your attic temperatures<BR>to see how hot
your attic is getting. If your attic is below 120<BR>degrees, then don't even
bother painting the roof. You will not see much <BR>improvement in house
temperature reduction (in my opinion). If your<BR>attic is more than 120
degrees, then you are living in an OVEN or a<BR>BROILER. All that heat is coming
down and making your house too hot.<BR><BR>I hope that answers some of your
questions. Good<BR>luck on your roof painting project. Feel free to email me if
you have<BR>any other questions about it.<BR><BR>Dave Mundy in St. Louis
Missouri.<BR><BR>________________________________<BR><BR>On Monday, August 08,
2011 04:51:53 PM Bob Waldrop wrote:<BR>> This is really interesting, I hope
you are able to contact the author, I<BR>> didn't notice an email on the
page. I'm also wondering, if it does wash<BR>> off, of the consequences for
my soil. Reduce acidity I guess. . .<BR><BR>If the slaked lime is high quality,
it is pure Ca(OH)2. On the roof it <BR>reacts<BR>over to lime - CaCO3. It will
slowly (over a couple of years) dissolve in <BR>pure<BR>rain water and end up in
the soil as lime. In areas with lightning it will<BR>dissolve in the weak nitric
acid from the nitrogen oxides dissolved in the<BR>rainwater and show up in the
soil as lime as the nitrates are used by the<BR>plants. In areas with acid rain
from sulfur burned in coal, it will rather<BR>quickly dissolve in the rainwater
and show up in the soil as gypsum -<BR>CaSO4.2H20.<BR><BR>><BR>><BR>> A
very intriguing idea....I have a vaulted ceiling that I'd like to better<BR>>
insulate against summer heat but haven't due to have to redo<BR>> the
insulation / re-sheetrock (unless someone has a better
suggestion)..<BR>><BR>><BR>> Here is a posting I found that sounds
promising:<BR>><BR>> <A
href="http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Cooling/WhiteRoofExperiment/WhiteRoof.htm">http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Cooling/WhiteRoofExperiment/WhiteRoof.htm</A><BR>><BR>>
I may contact David to see how the whitewash is holding up a year
later.<BR>><BR>> From: Bob Waldrop <<A
href="mailto:bwaldrop%40cox.net">mailto:bwaldrop%40cox.net</A>><BR>> To:
permaculture <<A
href="mailto:permaculture%40lists.ibiblio.org">mailto:permaculture%40lists.ibiblio.org</A>><BR>>
Sent: Monday, August 8, 2011 2:33 PM<BR>> Subject: [permaculture] Whitewash
for roofs?<BR>><BR>> The energy savings of white roofs appear to be well
substantiated. But<BR>> painting your roof can be expensive.<BR>><BR>>
There is however a lower cost way to achieve whiteness and that is<BR>>
whitewash. Here’s basic info from wikipedia on the subject.<BR>> <A
href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whitewash">http://en.wikipedia..org/wiki/Whitewash</A>
. The goal of course would be to<BR>> achieve the energy savings available
from white roofs at a lower cost than<BR>> conventional paints, even though
it would have to be reapplied every few<BR>> years.<BR>><BR>> I was
wondering if anyone had had any actual experience with this. In<BR>>
particular, I’m curious about how whitewash would adhere to asphalt<BR>>
shingles. If this would work, it could be a boon to low income
communities<BR>> everywhere.<BR>><BR>> Bob Waldrop, Oklahoma
City<BR>> _______________________________________________<BR>>
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list-style-type: square;
padding: 6px 0;
}
#ygrp-sponsor #ov ul {
margin: 0;
padding: 0 0 0 8px;
}
#ygrp-text {
font-family: georgia;
}
#ygrp-text p {
margin: 0 0 1em 0;
}
#ygrp-text tt {
font-size: 120%;
}
#ygrp-vital ul li:last-child {
border-right: none !important;
}
-->
</STYLE>
<!--~-|**|PrettyHtmlEnd|**|-~-->
<HR SIZE=1 noShade>
<A></A>
<P class=avgcert align=left color="#000000">No virus found in this
message.<BR>Checked by AVG - <A
href="http://www.avg.com">www.avg.com</A><BR>Version: 10.0.1391 / Virus
Database: 1520/3822 - Release Date:
08/08/11</P><!-- end group email --></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>